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	<title>Harrell&#039;s - Professional Fertilizer Solutions</title>
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	<link>http://harrells.com</link>
	<description>Professional Fertilizer Solutions</description>
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		<title>Edible Landscapes</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/edible-landscapes/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/edible-landscapes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Mar 2010 13:49:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Alex Barcia</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horticulture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1530</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[You can’t eat your lawn, but those hedges look delicious.
A new trend is rising.  Edible landscapes are becoming more popular, and many growers are taking advantage of the opportunity.  “New Trend” does not always indicate a new concept, however.  Considered by many a pioneer in the field of Edible Landscaping, Rosalind Creasy has been revolutionizing <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/edible-landscapes/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>You can’t eat your lawn, but those hedges look delicious.</h2>
<p>A new trend is rising.  Edible landscapes are becoming more popular, and many growers are taking advantage of the opportunity.  “New Trend” does not always indicate a new concept, however.  Considered by many a pioneer in the field of Edible Landscaping, Rosalind Creasy has been revolutionizing the way many of us think about gardening since 1970.  On her <a href="http://www.rosalindcreasy.com/" target="_blank">website</a>, Rosalind shows how growing your own food can be easy, inexpensive, AND attractive.  A quick Google search for “<a href="http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;rlz=1R2GPEA_en&amp;q=edible+landscape&amp;btnG=Search&amp;aq=f&amp;aqi=&amp;aql=&amp;oq=" target="_blank">edible landscape</a>” reveals the rest of the story.  This trend has caught on.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.rosalindcreasy.com/"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1531" title="Rosalind Creasy - Edible Gardening" src="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/rosalindcreasy.png" rel="facebox" alt="Rosalind Creasy - Edible Landscapes" width="600" height="147" /></a></p>
<p>The concept is simple.  Imagine a cozy cottage in the French countryside.  No doubt, beside it your mind’s eye painted a quaint potager garden just outside the kitchen window, likely a Garden overloaded with a bounty of herbs and vegetables.   The edible landscape movement takes a step outside the confines of the white picket garden fence and includes many edibles throughout the landscape.</p>
<p>In <a href="http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/food/2009-02-19-recession-vegetable-seeds_N.htm" target="_blank">Feb, 2009 USA Today reported</a> a boom in vegetable seed sales, a trend that moves inversely to the economy.  Recessions typically = gardens.    This trend, however, steps beyond the typical gardener’s battle with growing their own tomatoes and peppers.  This trend invites the shocking red ribs of a Swiss chard to share a prominent position beside the peppery bite of a nasturtium, and displays them prominently in the entryway flower bed intermingled with classic ornamentals.</p>
<p>The trend has led long term ornamental growers to propagate blueberry hedge rows, container citrus, and countless edible flowers and herbs to name a few.  Today, a tastefully decorated landscape can brighten your day and make your mouth water.</p>
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		<title>Customer Focus &#8211; Scientific Plant Service</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/customer-focus-scientific-plant-service/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/customer-focus-scientific-plant-service/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Feb 2010 15:13:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1448</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[These days all eyes are on the environment and we&#8217;re all trying to leave a smaller &#8220;footprint.&#8221;  Sometimes, finding ways to make a difference without breaking the bank can seem almost impossible.  In their winter newsletter, Harrell&#8217;s turf care customer, Scientific Plant Service, Inc.,(Baltimore, MD) explains how a small change in their lawn program made <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/customer-focus-scientific-plant-service/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>These days all eyes are on the environment and we&#8217;re all trying to leave a smaller &#8220;footprint.&#8221;  Sometimes, finding ways to make a difference without breaking the bank can seem almost impossible.  In their winter newsletter, Harrell&#8217;s turf care customer, Scientific Plant Service, Inc.,(Baltimore, MD) explains how a small change in their lawn program made a big difference in their footprint&#8230;and helped keep some change in their pocket.</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-1452 aligncenter" title="sps_header" src="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/sps_header.png" alt="sps_header" width="610" height="269" /><strong><br />
</strong></p>
<blockquote><p>Change seems to be the word of the new decade. We get used to the old and resist making changes. Those old shoes, your hair style, the reliable car, your home, you job are all things difficult to change. However, most often than not, when we finally make that change, the thought is: &#8220;I should have done this sooner!&#8221; In our industry there seem to always be changes. Some companies pick up on those changes and move forward while others are real comfortable with the status quo!</p>
<p>At SPS we feel that change is good when it means improving our services and techniques. The best part about it is you, our customers, who have been very supportive and receptive of our ever-changing formats. When our first lawn care program was structured back in the early 1980&#8217;s our basic weed &#8216;n feed applications consisted of four applications of granular fertilizer and two blanket applications for broadleaf weeds. In the early 1990&#8217;s our weed applications were converted to IPM treatments to reduce the amount of herbicides we put in our environment. In the late 1990&#8217;s we were able to combine the two spring fertilizations into one by using a more effective nitrogen source, &#8220;Nutra-lene&#8221;. Nutra-lene (a more expensive source) releases its nitrogen very slowly making it possible to apply a higher quantity of nitrogen with a single application without risk of causing injury to the grass.</p>
<p>In the fall of 2008 after extensive research our biggest and most significant change was made when we re-tooled our lawn program for the exclusive use of <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong> fertilizer. Even with the cost 2-3 times of our conventional fertilizers this change made good sense! At SPS as stewards of our environment,  has made it possible to help protect our environment and still provide an excellent product to you. Comparing 2007 to 2009, Scientific Plant Service has maintained the same client base yet our pounds of fertilizer applied has been reduced by 42%! We are currently applying 30% to 40% less Nitrogen without sacrificing results. Thanks to our &#8220;smart&#8221; <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong>, we have reduced, if not eliminated, the possibility of leaching and run-off so we can protect the Chesapeake Bay. <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong> has helped us reduce our carbon footprint by eliminating 1-2 rounds of applications and running our fleet of trucks up to 25% fewer miles.</p>
<p>To learn more about the environmental pluses of <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong> go to our web-site (<a href="http://www.spsonline.com" target="_blank">spsonline.com</a>) and click on the &#8220;Advanced Agrium Technologies&#8221; icon on the side bar. Be proud, tell your neighbors that you use SPS and <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong> fertilizer on your lawn. We are the first company in the USA with a lawn program that exclusively uses <strong><a href="http://harrells.com/focus/polyon/" target="_blank">Polyon</a></strong> fertilizers!</p></blockquote>
<h2><a href="http://www.harrells.com/wp-content/dl/sps_feb2010.pdf" target="_blank">Click here to read more of Scientific Plant Service&#8217;s Newsletter</a></h2>
<h2><a href="http://www.spsonline.com/newsletters.htm" target="_blank">Click here for previous Newsletters</a></h2>
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		<title>Giving a Mole Cricket to “The Mole Cricket” &#8211;  Our View of an Insect Control Success Story</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/giving-a-mole-cricket-to-the-mole-cricket/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/giving-a-mole-cricket-to-the-mole-cricket/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Feb 2010 15:53:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turf]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[by Dr. John Cisar and William Kern, Jr.,  University of Florida, FLREC
When  turf agronomist John Cisar came to Florida nearly 18 years ago, “the mole cricket” (actually a number of different immigrant mole cricket species in the Scapteriscus genera) was arguably the #1 insect pest of turfgrasses in the region.   Having been trained in the <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/giving-a-mole-cricket-to-the-mole-cricket/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>by Dr. John Cisar and William Kern, Jr.,  University of Florida, FLREC</h2>
<blockquote><p>When  turf agronomist John Cisar came to Florida nearly 18 years ago, “the mole cricket” (actually a number of different immigrant mole cricket species in the Scapteriscus genera) was arguably the #1 insect pest of turfgrasses in the region.   Having been trained in the more northern climate of Rhode Island, he had a naïve appreciation for the pest.  Now, Dr. Cisar considers mole crickets to be the insect world’s version of a Star War’s-like “Attack of the Clones” with waves of mole crickets marching endlessly across sports turf fields!</p>
<p>Well, what a difference a generation has made!  In the not so “good old days”, turfgrass managers had no choice but to make multiple insecticide applications, trying to time applications by the phases of the moon and hope for a better tomorrow.  Tomorrow has arrived.  Because of the hard work of University entomologists, the chemical products industry and turf industry cooperators, turfgrass managers have an increased knowledge of mole crickets biology and many options that take into account IPM strategies, new chemistries, coated formulations of existing products, and biocontrol agents.</p>
<p>What do we know about mole crickets?  Briefly, although there are 10 species of mole crickets found in the continental USA and Carribean region, most are not turf pests. In Florida, we are mainly concerned with three immigrant species of Scapteriscus spp. of mole crickets as turf pests, the short winged, southern, and tawny mole crickets.  These mole crickets are coined “immigrants” because it is widely reported that they came to the southeastern USA over 100 years ago on ships from their native South America.  Of the three, the southern and tawny are considered to be the most damaging to turf in Florida.  The short winged mole cricket has had less of an impact likely due to its inabilty to fly and is mainly found in coastal areas.  Without natural enemies in America, tawny and southern mole crickets have thrived and spread.  Southern and tawny mole crickets are found in Georgia, Florida, North and South Carolina, and across gulf coast states.</p>
<p>The tawny mole cricket has one generation annually, with eggs laid in underground chambers in the spring.  Hatching nymphs soon feed on plant roots throughout summer months and will molt several times before reaching the adult stage by September.  Overwintering adults will breed again next spring.  Tawny adult flights occur from February through April in Florida and in Georgia flights occur from March through May. They also have flights in October-November.</p>
<p>In Georgia and Central-North Florida, the southern mole cricket has a life cycle similar to the tawny mole cricket except that the activity begins and ends a few weeks later in the year.  In southern Florida, the southern mole cricket appears to have 2 generations each year.  There are two flight seasons (March-May) and (June-August) with each season accompanied by oviposition.  Southern mole crickets feed less on plant parts and are more active on the soil surface than the tawny mole cricket.  However, tunnelling from the southern mole cricket can cause damage to turf.</p>
<p>As we approach another year of mole cricket invasions, fortunately, there are a number of control options.  If you suspect that mole crickets are causing damage, it is suggested that you use a soap flush (1.5 oz. dishsoap:2 gal water) applied over a 4 sq. ft. area to get an estimate of the types and numbers of mole crickets on your site.  If 2-4 mole crickets come to the surface within 3 minutes of application then corrective application is justified to reduce their population.   Of the biological control agents, perhaps the best known approach is the use of the parasitic nematode (Steinernema scapterisci) which attacks only foreign mole crickets which are damaging to turf in the Southeast.  The nematode lives in the soil and enters into bodies through openings.  Once inside, the nematode releases bacteria that multiply and ultimately kills the mole cricket within 48 hours.  The nematodes feed on the bacteria and then mate and reproduce.  The juvenile nematodes exit the dead host and search for a new host after the first one goes kaput.  Spread of the nematode is enhanced by the flight of its host.  The application of the nematodes is accomplished with spray or soil injection units.</p>
<p>A variety of chemistries and control strategies are available for turf managers.  Insecticide baits can be effective.  Time bait applications for early evening because mole crickets feed at night.  Baits are broken down by irrigation and rain.  Fipronil (Chipco Choice, TopChoice) at first was only available as a custom-applied program.  Now, certain forms of fipronil can be applied independently by golf courses. Acephate (orthene), an organo-phosphate material that has been used for mole cricket control for a number of years can now be applied as a coated material that has a longer residual than the uncoated form.   Additional labelled mole cricket products for professional use include Imidacloprid (Merit), Bifenthrin (Talstar), Carbaryl, Cyfluthrin (Tempo), Detlamethrin (DeltaGard), and Lamda-cyhalothrin (Scimitar).</p>
<p>The use of trade names in this publication is solely for the purpose of providing specific information only.  Some products need to watered-in.  Read and follow label instructions carefully.  All chemicals should be used in accordance with the directions of the manufacturer’s label.  Use pesticides safely.   Moreover, some products are restricted-use only pesticides.  For further information about which products are legal to use in your area, or for more detailed information about mole crickets, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office.  Additional information is available on the internet.  A good site to begin with is a University of Florida site: http://molecrickets.ifas.ufl.edu.</p>
<p>Selected References:</p>
<ul>
<li>Brammer, A.  Long –term mole cricket control on horizon.  University of Florida, http://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu.</li>
<li>Buss, E. A.,  J. L. Capinera, and N. C. Leppla.  Pest Mole Cricket Management.  University of Florida EDIS publication.  http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.</li>
<li>Capinera, J. L. and N. C. Leppla.  Mole Crickets, Scapteriscus spp.  University of Florida EDIS publication. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
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		<title>Weed Management in Annual Color Beds</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/weed-management-in-annual-color-beds/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/weed-management-in-annual-color-beds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Feb 2010 15:32:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horticulture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1128</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Joseph C. Neal, Department of Horticultural Science,
North Carolina State University
Establishing and maintaining quality annual color beds requires a plan to prevent and control weeds. Weeds compete with orna­mental plants for water, light, and nutrients reducing aesthetic quality and plant growth. To minimize these problems, a weed manage­ment program should be developed and imple­mented prior to <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/weed-management-in-annual-color-beds/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2>Joseph C. Neal, Department of Horticultural Science,<br />
North Carolina State University</h2>
<blockquote><p>Establishing and maintaining quality annual color beds requires a plan to prevent and control weeds. Weeds compete with orna­mental plants for water, light, and nutrients reducing aesthetic quality and plant growth. To minimize these problems, a weed manage­ment program should be developed and imple­mented prior to planting. A successful weed management program involves the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Understanding weeds (identification and life cycle)</li>
<li>Understanding the available weed man­agement options</li>
<li>Site preparation – eliminate perennial broa­dleaf weeds and sedges before planting</li>
<li>Implementing a combination of effective methods to prevent and control weeds</li>
</ul>
<h3>Know Your Enemy</h3>
<p>The first steps in developing a successful weed management program is to identify your weeds and to determine how difficult they may be to control after planting. This requires knowl­edge of their life cycles, methods of reproduc­tion and spread, and susceptibility to different control strategies. Several pictorial guides are available for identifying weeds (refer to suggested references).</p>
<p>Most weeds found in color beds have one of three life cycles: summer annual, winter an­nual, or perennial. The weed’s life cycle provides information on timing of germination and method of reproduction. Annual weeds live for one growing season and are divided into two types – summer annuals and winter annuals.</p>
<p>Summer annual weeds germinate in the spring (about when the dogwoods bloom) and con­tinue throughout the summer months. They flower and produce seed prior to the first frost. Common summer annual weeds in­clude grasses such as barnyardgrass, crab­grass, and goosegrass; and broadleaves such as annual lespedeza, carpetweed, common purslane, morningglories, pigweed and spurge.</p>
<p>Winter annual weeds germinate in late summer and early fall, overwinter as small dormant but green plants, then flower and produce seed in spring or summer. Winter annual weeds usually die with the onset of warm weather. Common winter annual weeds include annual bluegrass, annual sowthistle, common chickweed, hairy bittercress, and henbit.</p>
<p>Perennial weeds live longer than two years and are classified according to their method of reproduction as simple or creeping. Simple perennials spread by seed, they have no natural means of spreading vegetatively. The roots are usually fleshy and can grow very large. Examples include common dandelion, curly dock, buckhorn and broadleaf plantain, and pokeweed. Creeping perennials reproduce by above ground stems (stolons) or below ground stems (rhizomes). Of course, most perennial weeds can also reproduce by seed. Examples include nutsedge, bermudagrass, red sorrel, ground ivy, and pennywort (dollarweed).</p>
<p>Annual weeds are generally more easily controlled in landscape beds than are perennials. Therefore, before planting it is important to document the weed species present in the landscape beds and adjacent areas. If difficult to control weeds are present, efforts should be made to control them before planting.</p>
<h3>Pre-Plant Site Preparation</h3>
<p>When perennial weeds or difficult-to-control annual weeds are present in the landscape bed, they should be con­trolled before planting. By far, the most common site preparation measure is to treat the bed with glyphosate about 2 weeks before planting then rototill before planting. This will control most emerged weeds, but does not affect seeds in the soil nor will it control weeds that are not actively growing at the time of treatment. Some particu­larly hard to control weeds such as nutsedge, mugwort and Florida betony will not be controlled by these treatments.</p>
<p>Although labor-intensive and expensive, manual removal of simple perennial weeds is practical because they do not spread by underground structures. Cultivation (rototilling) will kill many simple perennial weeds and kills emerged annual weeds. However, soil cultivation stimulates weed seed germination. Repeated cultivation can be used to deplete the soil seedbank by repeatedly stimulating weed seed germination then killing the emerged weeds before they can set new seed. This process takes time and is generally not practical for landscape beds. Manual removal of creeping perennials is difficult to impossible. Therefore, creeping perennial weeds are generally best controlled by the application of a non-selective, systemic herbicide such as glyphosate.</p>
<p>When particularly difficult-to-control weeds are present in beds and other measures have not or will not provide acceptable control, soil pasteurization may be an option. There are two options to kill weed seeds in the soil – <em>solarization</em> and <em>chemical fumigation</em>. <em>Solarization</em> is a process that uses energy from the sun to heat the soil in an effort to kill weed seeds. In the summer when days are longest and sunlight (and temperatures) is at a maximum, rototill the bed then cover with clear plastic. Leave the plastic in place for six to eight weeks. Small-seeded annual weeds can be reduced by solarization but it does not work as well on larger weed seeds or perennial weed propagules that are often deeper in the soil and avoid the killing temperatures.</p>
<p>If the site is heavily infested with perennial broadleaf weeds or sedges, <em>soil fumigation</em> may be considered. Because fumigation kills by using toxic chemicals, <em>this is an option of last resort</em>. If chemical fumigation is to be done, it is important that care be given to each stage of the fumigation process to ensure the safety of the fumigator and the effectiveness of the treatment. Soil preparation is the key to successful fumigation. Kill living vegetation with glyphosate, then cultivate to a depth of 6 to 8 inches several weeks before you intend to fumigate. Cultivate again immediately before fumigation. At treatment time, the soil should be free of clods and fresh organic debris, moist enough for seed germination, and have a tempera­ture greater than 50°F at the 6-inch depth. Since most fumigants are inactivated by high levels of undecomposed organic material (such as leaves or grass), organic debris should be removed or allowed to decompose before fumigation. If the soil is not moist, properly prepared and free of fresh organic matter, there may be weeds that the fumigant will not kill. While the soil should be moist, wet soils are not sufficiently aerated to allow free movement of the fumigant within the soil and will result in poor control.</p>
<p>Two fumigants are available: metham sodium (Metham) and dazomet (Basamid). Metham Sodium is a liquid while Basamid is in granular form; however, the active ingredient in both products is methyisothiocyanate which is released as a gas after the material is applied to the soil. Since Metham Sodium is a liquid and may be applied as a spray, injected or as a drench. Basamid is a granule and is applied with a spreader then rototilled into the soil. After application, irrigate the soil with sufficient water to saturate the surface. To increase effectiveness, cover the area with plastic sheeting. Seven days later, remove the plastic and cultivate to a depth of 2 inches. Do not plant until 14 to 20 days after treatment. If the soil is cold and wet you will have to wait longer. Always refer to product label for details and precautions. Your County Cooperative Ex­tension Agent is a good source of advice concerning which technique would be best for you. If you have never fumigated soil before, have an experienced pesticide applicator help the first time you fumigate. Fumigants are highly toxic chemicals that must be handled properly to be both safe and effective.</p>
<h3>Keep it Clean</h3>
<p>After preparing the planting bed, try not to re-introduce weeds. Clean equipment such as tillers or tractors before using them in the area. Do not add top soil unless it is absolutely necessary. Use only well composted organic amendments. Composts coming from certified composting facilities are generally weed-free. Also, control weeds around the beds to prevent weed introductions and encroachment.</p>
<h3>At Planting</h3>
<p>Weeds occupy open spaces. Designing the color bed to utilize all the bed space will increase competition and reduce the sunlight reaching the soil surface which will decrease the weed population. Proper soil conditioning and amendments, in concert with quality plant selection and maintenance will minimize seedling weed emergence later in the season.</p>
<p>An essential part of a weed management program is use of mulch. Mulches control weeds by depriving them of light. Organic mulches e.g., pine needles, pine bark, hardwood bark, leaf mold (old leaves), etc. may be used. For bedding plant areas that are to be transitioned two or three times a year, relatively fine-textured mulch is generally used and incorporated into the soil before re-planting.</p>
<p>What about toxic mulch? Organic matter left in piles and not turned to provide proper aeration will become anaerobic – producing many compounds that are toxic to bedding plants. Such mulches have a &#8220;bad&#8221; odor. Do not use anaerobic mulches in landscape beds. Additionally do not use pine straw as a mulch for pansy and viola beds. Pine straw mulch reduces the growth and quality of pansies; but it has not been reported to reduce growth of other bedding plant species – just pansies.</p>
<h3>After Planting</h3>
<p>Regardless of how carefully a bed is prepared and planted, weeds will emerge, even through the mulch. Consequently, sanitation is an essential part of any weed management program. Remove weeds when they are young, before they go to seed. Remove or control perennial weeds before they can spread. Control weeds in areas around the bed to reduce weed seed and vegetative spread into landscape beds. To reduce the need for hand weeding, it is often desirable to use a preemergence herbicide to control annual weeds.</p>
<h3>Preemergence Weed Control</h3>
<p>Preemergence herbicides are applied after planting but before weeds emerge and provide residual control of weed seedlings. Since preemergence herbicides will not control emerged weeds, they should be applied before weeds germinate or all existing weeds must be killed prior to herbicide application. With annual flower beds, preemergence herbicides should be applied after transplanting to weed-free soil. It is generally best to mulch the bed before herbicide application. Granular formulations of herbicides are safer to bedding plants than spray formulations. Bedding plant foliage should be dry at the time of application to prevent herbicide granules from sticking to the foliage. Irrigate after treatment to wash granules off of the plants and to &#8220;activate&#8221; the herbicide. When bedding plants establish quickly only one herbicide application is typically needed. A dense plant canopy will deter weed growth. However, if bedding plants do not provide complete ground coverage, or if yellow nutsedge is the target weed, a second herbicide application may be necessary about eight weeks after the initial treatment.</p>
<h3>Choosing the right herbicide</h3>
<p>The proper herbicide for each situation will be dictated by the plant species located in the bed, weed species, and future use. Table 1 provides some general information about herbicides commonly used in landscape color beds. Table 2 provides guidelines on which bedding plants are listed on preemergence herbicide labels. Use this chart to select possible herbicides for use, then check herbicide labels for specific use-instructions, precautions, and weeds controlled.</p>
<h3>Postemergence Weed Control</h3>
<p>As stated previously, hand weeding will be a part of any landscape weed management program. However, some weeds can be controlled after emergence with herbicides. Postemergence herbicides are applied to weeds after they have emerged. Characteristics of postemergence herbicides that should be considered before selection and use are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Systemic versus Contact</li>
<li>Selective versus Non-selective</li>
<li>Timing</li>
</ul>
<p>Postemergence herbicides can be classified as systemic or contact, and selective or non-selective. Systemic herbicides such as Roundup-Pro and Finale are absorbed and move through the plant. These are useful for controlling perennial weeds. For best control, the weeds must be actively growing so the herbicides can move throughout the plant. Contact herbicides such as Reward and Scythe kill only the portion of the plant that is actually contacted by the herbicide. Contact-type herbicides control small annual weeds but only burn-back perennial or large annual weeds. Thus, good spray coverage is important.</p>
<p>Selective herbicides only kill specific plants. The only selective herbicides recommended for use in bedding plants are the postemergence, grass control herbicides, Sethoxydim, Fusilade II, Acclaim and Envoy. These herbicides only kill grasses while broadleaves are unharmed. Check the labels for each herbicide for labeled bedding plants, susceptible weeds and special precautions. For example: Envoy controls annual bluegrass, whereas the other products do not. Acclaim will control crabgrass and other annual grasses but will not control most perennial grasses. For perennial grass control Fusilade II, Sethoxydim or Envoy are preferred. Generally, these herbicides may be applied directly over the top of bedding plants, but check the label for precautions as certain species and varieties have shown sensitivity to one or more of these herbicides. Careful attention to application uniformity and dose are needed because over-dosing plants (or too high a concentration of spray adjuvant) can result in damage to bedding plants. Additionally, some surfactants can injure tender foliage and flower petals, especially if applied during hot weather. Read the label carefully and use only recommended spray adjuvants or surfactants.</p>
<p>Non-selective postemergence herbicides such as glyphosate (Roundup-Pro, Touchdown, and many other trade names), Finale (glufosinate), Reward (diquat) and Scythe (pelargonic acid) have the potential to kill or injure any plant they contact. However, they may be used as spot sprays around color beds, avoiding contact with desirable vegetation. If tall weeds emerge in beds, and hand weeding is not feasible, it is sometimes possible to wipe them with a concentrated solution of glyphosate (33% by volume in water). Of course care must be taken to avoid glyphosate contact with the bedding plants.</p>
<p>Following these seven rules will help ensure that you get maximum effectiveness from postemergence herbicides.</p>
<ol>
<li>Apply the correct dose</li>
<li>Multiple applications are may be required to control perennial weeds</li>
<li>Use the type and amount of surfactant specified on the label, if needed</li>
<li>Apply when air temperature and humidity are favorable</li>
<li>Treat weed at proper growth stage</li>
<li>Avoid mowing 3 or 4 days before and after herbicide application</li>
<li>Allow plenty of drying time (check the label for specified times)</li>
</ol>
<p>It is important to develop a weed management strategy that encompasses all 12 months of the year and utilizes all available options. These include preventative measures such as organic and inorganic mulches, preemergence herbicides, and sanitary practices that prevent weed seeds and vegetative parts from spreading. Weed management in color beds can be accomplished with mulch, preemergence herbicides and/or hand weeding, if perennial weeds are controlled before planting.</p>
<p><strong>Note</strong>: Always use pesticides according to directions on the label. Use of trade names does not imply endorsement by the N.C. Cooperative Extension Service or the N.C Agricultural Research Service of the products named nor criticism of similar products not mentioned.</p>
<h3>Suggested References &#8211; Weed Identification Guides</h3>
<ul>
<li><strong>Weeds of Southern Turfgrass<br />
</strong>Publication Distributions Center, IFAS Building 664<br />
P. O. Box 110011, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida 32611<br />
(904-392-1764) &#8211; call for cost and shipping information</li>
<li><strong>Turfgrass Pest Management Manual</strong><br />
North Carolina State University Department of Crop Science<br />
Box 7620 Raleigh, NC 27695-7620<br />
$12.00 &#8211; Make check payable to: Crop Science Extension</li>
<li><strong>Weeds of the Northeast Cornell University Press</strong><br />
P. O. Box 6525 Ithaca, NY 14851-6525<br />
607-277-2211 $29.95 plus $5.00 shipping</li>
</ul>
<table border="0" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="3">
<h3>Table 1. Preemergence herbicides commonly used in landscape beds</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Trade Name</strong></td>
<td><strong>Active Ingredients</strong></td>
<td><strong>Comments</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Barricade 65 DG, or Regalkade 0.5G</td>
<td>prodiamine</td>
<td>Fairly broad spectrum weed control including annual grasses, spurge, chickweed, henbit, oxalis and others. Granule (Regalkade G) is much safer than the spray (Barricade). Only a few bedding plants are on the label.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Pendulum 2G</td>
<td>pendimethalin</td>
<td>Fairly broad spectrum weed control including annual grasses, spurge, chickweed, henbit, oxalis and others. Granular formulation much safer than spray. Safe on many herbaceous ornamentals.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Dacthal 75WP</td>
<td>DCPA</td>
<td>Preemergence control of crabgrass, spurge, dodder, and several other annual weeds. Shorter residual control than other herbicides listed here.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Devrinol 2G or 50DF</td>
<td>napropamide</td>
<td>Somewhat narrow spectrum of weeds controlled – annual grasses primarily. Safe on many herbaceous ornamentals but labeled for few.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Snapshot TG</td>
<td>isoxaben + trifluralin</td>
<td>Broader weed control spectrum, but can injure many bedding plant species. Check the label carefully before use in color beds. Broad spectrum weed control. Injurious to many bedding plants. The granular formulation (XL) is much safer than the spray.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Surflan, XL</td>
<td>oryzalin, oryzalin + benefin</td>
<td>Broad spectrum weed control. Injurious to many bedding  plants. The granular formulation (XL) is much safer than the spray.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Pennant Magnum</td>
<td>s-metolachlor</td>
<td>Preemergence control of yellow nutsedge, annual grasses and a few broadleaf weeds. Labeled for use on only a few bedding plant species.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Preen</td>
<td>trifluralin</td>
<td>Controls annual grasses and a few broadleaf weeds. The weakest weed control of the herbicides listed here but also the safest herbicide on herbaceous ornamentals.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<table border="0" cellspacing="2" cellpadding="2" width="100%">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>
<h3>Table 2. Preemergence Herbicides Registered for Use on Common Bedding Plants</h3>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>
<h2 style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.harrells.com/wp-content/dl/table_2.pdf" target="_blank">Click here for a larger (PDF) version of this table</a></h2>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1138" title="weedmgtchart3" src="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/weedmgtchart3.gif" alt="weedmgtchart3" width="550" height="688" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</blockquote>
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		<title>Becoming a More Effective Leader</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/becoming-a-more-effective-leader/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/becoming-a-more-effective-leader/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Feb 2010 14:58:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1059</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Management isn’t just about giving orders. Here are some tips that will make you a more effective leader.
Managers vs. Leaders

Managers do things right – they lead by authority
Leaders to the right things – they lead by example, learn by teaching and reinforcing learning

Keep the Main thing the Main thing

Always work on self development, self concept <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/becoming-a-more-effective-leader/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Management isn’t just about giving orders. Here are some tips that will make you a more effective leader.</h3>
<p><strong>Managers vs. Leaders</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Managers do things right – they lead by authority</li>
<li>Leaders to the right things – they lead by example, learn by teaching and reinforcing learning</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Keep the Main thing the Main thing</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Always work on self development, self concept and self confidence</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Get out of the trenches</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Emotional trenches are not good for your career</li>
<li>Network, network, network</li>
<li>Concentrate on the things your boss values in your current position</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Have a destination and a map</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Any road will take you there if you don’t know where you’re going</li>
<li>Create your blue print, goals and personal mission statement.  Your mission statement is your life’s blue print</li>
<li>When you write your goals down, it increases your chance of reaching them by 20%</li>
<li>Put goals in bite size pieces</li>
<li>No one limits yourself more than you</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Reduce Stress</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>The #1 cause of stress in America is financial bondage</li>
<li>98% of retired folks today are dependent upon SS, welfare and families to survive</li>
<li>Are you a 40, 40, 40 planner (work for 40 hours a week for 40 years and receive a $40 watch) or do you have a Plan B (investments, passive income)?</li>
<li>Simplify your life
<ul>
<li>Decrease or delay your spending</li>
<li>Care for your needs, defer your wants</li>
<li>Establish priorities and stick to them; Revisit as often as you need to</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Increase your Knowledge</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Insanity:  Doing the same thing the same way day after day and expecting the different results</li>
<li>Grow and be confident in your knowledge</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Take Action</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Successful people make decisions quickly</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Top 5 Reasons People Don’t Change</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Don’t know what to do</li>
<li>Think idea won’t work</li>
<li>Don’t know how to do it</li>
<li>See no positive reward</li>
<li>Think they are doing it now</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Emotional Control</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>It is imperative that we grasp the ownership mentality vs. the victim mentality</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>The Victim is….							While the Owner is:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Outer focused &#8230;&#8230; Inner focused</li>
<li>Allows others to dictate how I feel &#8230;&#8230; I own my feelings</li>
<li>Allows others to impact my choices &#8230;&#8230; I own my behaviors</li>
<li>Allow others to determine how I act/react &#8230;&#8230; I own my attitude</li>
<li>If you always do what you’ve always done, you’ll always get what you’ve always gotten</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>How to work with People</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Stop using pre-qualifiers</li>
<li>Be clear about what you want when you want it</li>
<li>Watch for signs that your audience is listening (notes, nods)</li>
<li>Ask for clarification for “my” benefit – speak up</li>
<li>Be mentally prepared</li>
</ul>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Reflecting</strong><br />
Avoid these words…..		And use these instead:</p>
<ul>
<li>Need &#8230;&#8230; Important</li>
<li>Should &#8230;&#8230; Imperative</li>
<li>Must &#8230;&#8230; Necessary</li>
<li>Have to &#8230;&#8230; Crucial</li>
<li>Ought to &#8230;&#8230; Beneficial</li>
</ul>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Managing Your Soil Potassium</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/managing-your-soil-potassium/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/managing-your-soil-potassium/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jan 2010 14:24:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turf]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1032</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Managing Your Soil Potassium
G. H. Snyder and J. L. Cisar explain potassium&#8217;s important role in contributing to overall soil quality.
Potassium (K) is second only to nitrogen in terms of plant requirements.  Potassium plays a critical role in the control of and regulation of various minerals, water relations, promotion of meristematic tissue, and rooting.  <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/managing-your-soil-potassium/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Managing Your Soil Potassium</h3>
<p><em>G. H. Snyder and J. L. Cisar explain potassium&#8217;s important role in contributing to overall soil quality.</em></p>
<blockquote><p>Potassium (K) is second only to nitrogen in terms of plant requirements.  Potassium plays a critical role in the control of and regulation of various minerals, water relations, promotion of meristematic tissue, and rooting.  In addition, K also activates enzymes associated with respiration and photosynthesis.  Potassium is known as the “health” element because insufficient soil K increases susceptibility to cold, heat, drought, diseases, and wear.</p>
<p>Potassium, a monovalent cation, is poorly retained in soils with low cation exchange capacity (CEC) due to the lack of electrostatic attraction necessary for K retention.  Therefore, it is difficult to maintain adequate soil K in sandy soils.  Moreover, problems related to K retention in the high sand content, low organic matter conditions typical of putting green root zones, particularly when newly established, is exacerbated.  For example, in a field study, conducted on sand based putting greens with and without peat in which K was applied weekly (0.5 lb K 1000 sq ft<sup>-1</sup> wk<sup>-1</sup>) during grow-in (12 wks) approximately 30 and 70 % of the applied K leached from the root zone with and without peat, respectively (Snyder et al., 2003).  Soil-test data from the same study further demonstrate the inability to “bank” K despite repeat applications at high application rates described above (figure 1).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a rel="attachment wp-att-1038" href="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/effectofk.jpg" rel="facebox"><img class="size-full wp-image-1038  aligncenter" title="Effect of K Fertilization on Soil-Test K" src="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/effectofk.jpg" alt="Effect of K Fertilization on Soil-Test K" width="300" height="232" /></a>Figure 1</p>
<p>A sand soil might have a CEC (ability to retain positively-charged nutrients of only 1 or 2 cmoles kg-1.  Furthermore, in most cases only 4 to 7 % of the CEC retains K (Wolf, 1999) because the rest is occupied by the more strongly adsorbed calcium and magnesium ions.  Thus, a soil with a CEC of 2 cmoles kg-1 and 5 % K saturation will, theoretically, retain less than 40 lbs K per acre in an exchangeable (plant-available form, and lower values frequently are observed.  Low soil-test K is common in irrigated sand soils, and generally can not be increased appreciably over time by K fertilization.</p>
<p>Because K is so mobile, turf managers who understand the importance of K nutrition generally address this problem by applying K frequently.    This method of management, however, can lead to a peak and valley effect ranging from sufficient to deficient soil K within a matter of 30 days, and fully reverting to pre-fertilization levels 60 days following application of soluble muriate of potash (KCl) (Fig. 2).  In addition, while K loading is not of serious consequence to the environment, the time and labor required to reapply K is of serious value.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a rel="attachment wp-att-1047" href="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/effectofk2-alt.jpg" rel="facebox"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-1047" title="Effect of K Fertilization" src="http://harrells.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/effectofk2-alt.jpg" alt="Effect of K Fertilization" width="300" height="232" /></a>Figure 2</p>
<p>An alternative to the use of soluble K sources such as muriate of potash and sulfate of potash might be to use controlled-release K fertilizers.  Controlled-release of K generally is accomplished by coating soluble K sources with materials such as sulfur, plastic, or resins.  The use of controlled-release K fertilizers either alone or in combination with soluble K sources will reduce the peaks and valleys associated with soluble K sources at the same time reducing time and labor costs.</p>
<p>Several studies conducted at the University of Florida demonstrated the potential of controlled-release K sources to reduce K loss after fertilization relative to soluble K sources.  In a glasshouse study conducted in Arredondo fine sand, Sartain observed that soluble muriate of potash leached large amounts of K after only one inch of leaching occurred.   Sulfate of potash required two inches in order to leach appreciable K, indicating less potential of sulfate of potash to leach relative to muriate of potash.  Sulfur coating sulfate of potash reduced K leaching by 90% relative to soluble K sources.  After seven inches of leaching occurred only a small fraction of the applied K had leached from the coated K source.</p>
<p>In a field study on a sand soil in Ft. Lauderdale, bermudagrass tissue contained more potassium over a six-month period when fertilized with slow-release K (coated) sources than when fertilized with the water-soluble sources muriate of potash (KCl) and sulfate of potash (K<sub>2</sub>SO<sub>4</sub>) (Table 1), illustrating the benefits of a controlled-release K source.</p>
<p><strong>Table 1.  Potassium content of bermudagrass clippings following fertilization with water-soluble and slow-release potassium fertilizers.</strong></p>
<table border="0" width="540">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td rowspan="2"><strong>Potassium Source</strong></td>
<td colspan="4" align="center"><strong>Months after fertilization</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center"><strong>0</strong></td>
<td align="center"><strong>2</strong></td>
<td align="center"><strong>4</strong></td>
<td align="center"><strong>6</strong></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>None</strong></td>
<td align="center">0.95%</td>
<td align="center">0.60%</td>
<td align="center">0.96%</td>
<td align="center">0.61%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>KCl (soluble)</strong></td>
<td align="center">0.74%</td>
<td align="center">1.08%</td>
<td align="center">1.28%</td>
<td align="center">0.88%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>K2SO4 (soluble)</strong></td>
<td align="center">0.74%</td>
<td align="center">0.99%</td>
<td align="center">1.18%</td>
<td align="center">0.90%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Resin Coated</strong></td>
<td align="center">0.92%</td>
<td align="center">1.36%</td>
<td align="center">1.83%</td>
<td align="center">1.45%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><strong>Sulfur Coated</strong></td>
<td align="center">1.00%</td>
<td align="center">1.23%</td>
<td align="center">1.44%</td>
<td align="center">1.03%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>Source:   Snyder, G. H., and J. L. Cisar.  Amer. Soc. Hort. Sci. 117:411-414(1992).<br />
Wolf, B. 1999. The Fertile Triangle.  Hawthorne Press, Inc.  New York, NY. p. 183.</em></p></blockquote>
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		<title>Understanding Your Water Analysis</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/understanding-your-water-analysis/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/understanding-your-water-analysis/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Jan 2010 16:29:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Horticulture]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=1009</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By Dr. Bill McElhannon
A working knowledge of water quality is indispensable for greenhouse growers and nurserymen. Water quality can be extremely variable location to location; change over time, and the various properties of irrigation water can have significant impact on plant growth. Every grower and nurseryman should be able to quickly scan a water analysis <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/understanding-your-water-analysis/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>By Dr. Bill McElhannon</h3>
<blockquote><p><strong>A working knowledge of water quality is indispensable for greenhouse growers and nurserymen. Water quality can be extremely variable location to location; change over time, and the various properties of irrigation water can have significant impact on plant growth. Every grower and nurseryman should be able to quickly scan a water analysis and understand the consequences of its use.</strong></p>
<p><strong>Reading the data</strong><br />
Water analysis are reported in one of three units: ppm &#8211; parts per million; mg/l &#8211; milligrams per liter; and meq/l &#8211; milliequivalents per liter.</p>
<p><strong>Conversions:</strong> ppm = mg/l; mg/l = ppm; meq x meq wt (mg/l) = ppm</p>
<p><strong>Water characteristics that affect crop performance:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>EC (soluble salts) – pH &#8211; Alkalinity</li>
<li>Concentration of plant nutrients (Ca, Mg, S, B, Cl)</li>
<li>Concentration of potentially toxic elements (Na, Cl, Li, F, B)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>EC:  Electrical Conductivity</strong><br />
EC is a measurement of the conductance of electricity through water and is directly proportional to concentration of dissolved salts in water. Pure water is a poor conductor electricity. Water containing high salts has high conductance and waters with low salt content have low conductance. The preferred method of reporting EC is dS/m (desiSiemens per meter) but this value can easily be converted to other units using the table below. The most common terms, dS/m, mS/cm and mmho/cm provide exactly the same value.</p>
<p><strong>Units for expressing electrical conductivity</strong></p>
<table border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>Unit</th>
<th>Abbreviaton</th>
<th>Units</th>
<th>Example</th>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>Millisiemens</td>
<td>mS/cm</td>
<td>EC x 10<sup>-3</sup>/cm</td>
<td>2.25 mS/cm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Decisiemens*</td>
<td>dS/m</td>
<td>EC x 10<sup>-1</sup>/m</td>
<td>2.25 dS/m</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Millimhos</td>
<td>mmho/cm</td>
<td>EC x 10<sup>-3</sup>/cm</td>
<td>2.25 mmho/cm</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Micromhos</td>
<td>micromhos/cm</td>
<td>EC x 10<sup>-6</sup>/cm</td>
<td>2250 micromho/cm</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><strong>pH:</strong><br />
The pH of most irrigation waters range from 4.6 to 8.5 . Considered alone, pH is not a major factor affecting irrigation suitability. However, water pH will affect the efficacy of may pesticides and other chemicals, and solution pH is a primary factor influencing nutrient availability. The micronutrients Fe, Mn, B, Cu, and Zn become less available as the media solution pH increases and become more available (in some cases toxic) as the pH decreases. The reverse is true for Mo, Ca, and Mg with availability decreasing as the pH decreases. Risk of increased PO<sub>4</sub> leaching and Al toxicity are also increased at low pH.</p>
<p><strong>Alkalinity:</strong><br />
Alkalinity is a measurement of water’s ability to resist change; it buffers water against changes in pH. Carbonate and bicarbonate account for 90% of the alkalinity in most waters, and are the only two variables that need to be considered. Carbonate (CO<sub>3</sub><sup>-2</sup>) and bicarbonate (HCO<sub>3</sub><sup>-</sup>) are salts of carbonic acid (H<sub>2</sub>CO<sub>3</sub>) which are formed when carbon dioxide dissolves in water. The carbonate ion exists only at very high pH values, and generally, the major factor influencing the alkalinity of irrigation water is bicarbonate. Bicarbonate (or carbonate) reacts with the hydrogen ions in water, forming carbonic acid, which then dissociates into carbon dioxide and water. Waters that have high levels of carbonates or bicarbonates can therefore remove hydrogen ions from the solution and buffer water against changes in pH. Growers irrigating with waters that have high alkalinity often find that the pH of the growing substrate increases over time and plants may eventually develop micronutrient deficiencies. Growers using low alkalinity water may see the reverse, with the growing substrate developing very low pH and micronutrient toxicities are frequently observed. High water alkalinity can be adjusted by use of acidic fertilizers or by acid injection. The NC State Alkalinity Calculator is a useful excel program that calculates acid additions to irrigation water.  It is available free at <a href="http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/software/alk.html" target="_blank">http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/software/alk.html</a>.</p>
<p><strong>How is alkalinity reported?</strong><br />
Laboratories may report alkalinity as mg/l or meq/l CaCO<sub>3</sub> or as ppm carbonate and bicarbonate.<br />
Parts per million carbonate, bicarbonate and total alkalinity are related as follows:</p>
<p>1 meq bicarbonate (HCO<sub>3</sub><sup>-</sup>) = 61 mg/l or 61 ppm<br />
1 meq carbonate (CO<sub>3</sub><sup>-2</sup>) = 30 mg/l or 30 ppm<br />
1 meq CaCO<sub>3</sub> = 50mg/l or 50 ppm<br />
From a reactivity perspective, 1 meq of bicarbonate = 1 meq carbonate = 1 meq calcium carbonate.</p>
<p>To convert ppm bicarbonate to meq/l CaCO<sub>3</sub> divide ppm bicarbonate by 61.<br />
To convert ppm carbonate to meq/l CaCO<sub>3</sub> divide ppm carbonate by 30</p>
<p><strong>Calcium and Magnesium (Ca<sup>+2</sup> &amp; Mg<sup>+2</sup>):</strong><br />
Ca and Mg are present in most waters.  Both are plant nutrients, and in many cases irrigation water may provide part or all of the plants requirements for these elements.  It is rare when Ca and Mg levels are high enough to cause salt damage to crops.  However, in most cases, supplemental Ca and Mg must be supplied to fulfill the crop’s needs.</p>
<p><strong>Sodium (Na<sup>+</sup>)</strong>:<br />
Na is present in most waters, and high levels of Na can contribute to salinity problems.  Sodium can interfere with the uptake of Ca and Mg and cause foliar burns associated with poor water uptake or accumulation in plant tissue. If the concentration of Na is less than 69 ppm (3 meq/l), sodium is rarely a plant growth problem. The potential for sodium toxicity from root assimilation is not a concern if the AdjR<sub>Na</sub> is less than 3 or the SAR is less than 4. Mineral soils with an AdjR<sub>Na</sub> greater than 6 may have permeability or drainage problems which can often be mitigated with supplemental Ca. With greenhouse and nursery production, waters containing less than 1.5 meq Na (35 ppm) are most desirable.</p>
<p><strong>Chloride (Cl<sup>-</sup>):</strong><br />
Chloride is often found in irrigation water in association Na.  Foliar damage can occur with some crops if the Cl content is greater than 2 meq/l (71 ppm). Plant roots are less sensitive to Cl than plant foliage and normally toxicity by root assimilation is not observed if the concentration is less than 4 meq/l (144 ppm).</p>
<p><strong>Sulfate (SO<sub>4</sub><sup>-2</sup>):</strong><br />
Sulfate in water is often a primary source of S in the growers fertility program. If the irrigation water contains less than 48 ppm (1 meq ) of SO<sub>4</sub>, the water will not supply all of the S requirements of the crop.  Sulfate levels of 100 – 150 ppm normally do not cause problems with plant growth.</p>
<p><strong>Boron (B):</strong><br />
Growers and nurserymen should consider the additive concentration of B in irrigation water, growing substrate and fertilizer when determining the B hazard of a fertility program. Total concentration of B from all sources should be less than 1 ppm with sensitive crops.  If B levels in irrigation water are more than 0.50 ppm , growers should consider using B free media and fertilizers.</p>
<p><strong>Fluoride (F)and Lithium (Li):</strong><br />
Fluoride can be excessive in some irrigation waters and in municipal waters treated with this element. Foliage plants or Easter lilies may develop tip burn if F levels in water exceed 1.0 ppm. With most crops, lithium content in water should be less than 2.5 ppm.  Citrus and poinsettias are very sensitive to lithium and Li levels should be 0.075 ppm.</p></blockquote>
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		<title>Please Join Us For Our Upcoming USGA Green Section Webcasts</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/please-join-us-for-our-upcoming-usga-green-section-webcasts/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/please-join-us-for-our-upcoming-usga-green-section-webcasts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jan 2010 17:34:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=965</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thursday, January 14th, at 7:00 PM Eastern
Building, Planting, and Growing-In Your Backyard Putting Green
Wouldn’t it be great to have your own putting green in your backyard? Admit it, you have always wanted one. If you just had one you know your scores would drop dramatically and your short game would be the envy of your <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/please-join-us-for-our-upcoming-usga-green-section-webcasts/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Thursday, January 14<sup>th</sup>, at 7:00 PM Eastern</strong></p>
<p><em>Building, Planting, and Growing-In Your Backyard Putting Green</em></p>
<p>Wouldn’t it be great to have your own putting green in your backyard? Admit it, you have always wanted one. If you just had one you know your scores would drop dramatically and your short game would be the envy of your friends.  Plus, it would be great for the kids, and look at all the great exercise you would get. When you stop to think about it, you owe it to your friends, family, and yourself to build a backyard putting green.</p>
<p>If this rationalization sounds familiar you might be one of the many golfers who contact the USGA asking about how to build and maintain a putting green. You might have even spoken with one of our Green Section agronomists who very likely told you how difficult and expensive a task you were considering.</p>
<p>If, in spite of the dire warnings, you are still ready for the challenge, plan to attend these two upcoming USGA live webcasts.  The first will discuss building, planting, and growing-in your backyard putting green while the second will  focus on the necessary ongoing, maintenance for the new green.</p>
<p>Presenter:  Jim Moore , director of construction education, USGA Green Section</p>
<p><strong>See below for links to join these webcasts (each webcast has a specific link).</strong> <strong>However, it is very important that you read the text below describing how to install Microsoft Live Meeting CLIENT before you attempt to join the meeting. If you have not installed the Microsoft Live Meeting CLIENT software properly you will not be able to hear the audio during the meeting.</strong></p>
<p><strong>PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING!</strong></p>
<p><strong>The following information is provided to help you attend and enjoy USGA Green Section live on-line conferences. Please take the time to read this document prior to trying to attend the meeting. </strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>What you need to attend: </strong></p>
<p>1) <strong>You will need a reliable and constant broadband Internet connection</strong> to attend and enjoy the online meeting. Slow, intermittent connections will not work. Dial-up and satellite connections will not work. Wireless connections are prone to periodic disconnects that you might not notice when browsing the web or working with e-mail. However, during our online meeting a constant “stream” of audio is sent to your computer. Should your connection be broken even for a very short period of time, you may experience an interruption in the audio.</p>
<p>2) <strong>You must use a PC (not a Mac) and Microsoft Internet Explorer as your web browser.</strong></p>
<p>3) The USGA uses Microsoft Office Live Meeting to “broadcast” our on-line meetings and educational sessions. For you to attend one of our Live Meetings, you will need to download and install the <strong><em>Microsoft Live Meeting 2007 Client</em></strong>. This program must be installed on the computer that you will use to attend the meeting (see the next step).</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Installing Microsoft Live Meeting 2007 Client </strong></p>
<p>As mentioned above, you will need to install the <strong>Live Meeting Client</strong> on the computer you will use to attend the meeting. Please do the following well before the meeting date.</p>
<p>1) When you click the “check your system” link below, you will be taken to a Microsoft site that will check your system to see if you have the latest version of the Live Meeting Client installed. If not it will walk you through the installation. <strong>(Note: DO NOT choose the web access option during installation. You will not be able to hear if you do.) </strong>Be sure to watch for messages in Internet Explorer to allow the installation. Once installed, you will be taken to a test Live Meeting site that indicates you have successfully installed Live Meeting (in various languages). If you see this site you are all set. When the date and time for the Green Section webcast arrives, all you will have to do is click the link to join the meeting.</p>
<p>2) Here is the link to <a title="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703" href="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703">check your system </a>. Please do this well before the meeting date. It is very difficult and sometimes impossible to help you through the installation once the meeting time approaches.</p>
<p><strong>Troubleshooting</strong><strong> </strong></p>
<p>If you are having trouble installing the Live Meeting Client:</p>
<p>1)      Be sure you have permission to install programs onto your computer.</p>
<p>2)      Be sure to watch the information bar near the top of Internet Explorer during installation for messages. Depending on your security settings, you may have to repeatedly allow Microsoft to install plug-ins such as Active X. We have used Live Meeting extensively and have not had any problems so don’t hesitate to allow the installation.</p>
<p>If you are having trouble with your audio during the meeting:</p>
<p>1)      As mentioned above, any interruption in your connection can result in your audio being disconnected. Attendee’s should be able to reconnect through the Voice &amp; Video pane. Click on the Voice &amp; Video tab at the top of the page. You will see a small phone with an “X” next to it. Click on the phone to disconnect. Then, click on it again to “Join Audio”. Depending on your connection, you may have to do this multiple times throughout the meeting. If you did not install the Live Meeting Client, and instead selected the web access option, you will not receive audio. You will need to exit and click on <a title="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703" href="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703">check your system </a> to repeat the installation.</p>
<p>If you are having other problems feel free to contact either the USGA tech support group at 800.222.8742 or call Jim Moore at 254.848.2202 (<a title="mailto:jmoore@usga.org" href="mailto:jmoore@usga.org">jmoore@usga.org</a>).</p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Joining the Meeting </strong></p>
<p>Once you have successfully installed the Live Meeting 2007 Client as discussed above you are ready to join the Green Section live webcast. <strong>Note that you may not be able to join the webcast until within 30 minutes of the start time. </strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong>Here are the links for each meeting:</strong></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><em>Golfers: We Love You But Sometimes You Drive Us Crazy &#8211; Tuesday, January 12th, at 2:00 PM Eastern</em><em> </em></p>
<p><strong><a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=MDZB3H&amp;role=attend" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=MDZB3H&amp;role=attend">CLICK HERE TO JOIN THIS MEETING</a></strong><br />
<strong>First Time Users:</strong><br />
To save time before the meeting, <a title="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703" href="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703">check your system </a>to make sure it is ready to use Microsoft Office Live Meeting.<br />
<strong>Troubleshooting</strong><br />
Unable to join the meeting by clicking the link? Follow these steps:</p>
<ol>
<li>Copy this address and paste it into your web browser:<br />
<a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join</a></li>
<li>Copy and paste the required information:<br />
Meeting ID: MDZB3H<br />
Location: <a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga</a></li>
</ol>
<p><em>What We&#8217;ve Learned About Ultradwarf Management Part 3 &#8211; Fertilization and Growth Management – Thursday, January 14<sup>th</sup>, 10:00 AM Eastern</em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p><strong><a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=N3D4WC&amp;role=attend" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=N3D4WC&amp;role=attend">CLICK HERE TO JOIN THIS MEETING</a></strong><br />
<strong>First Time Users:</strong><br />
To save time before the meeting, <a title="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703" href="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703">check your system </a>to make sure it is ready to use Microsoft Office Live Meeting.<br />
<strong>Troubleshooting</strong><br />
Unable to join the meeting? Follow these steps:</p>
<ol>
<li>Copy this address and paste it into your web browser:<br />
<a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join</a></li>
<li>Copy and paste the required information:<br />
Meeting ID: N3D4WC<br />
Location: <a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga</a></li>
</ol>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p><em>Building, Planting, and Growing-In Your Backyard Putting Green – Thursday, January 14<sup>th</sup>, 7:00 PM Eastern</em></p>
<p><strong> </strong></p>
<p><strong><a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=K5FFJ3&amp;role=attend" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join?id=K5FFJ3&amp;role=attend">CLICK HERE TO JOIN THIS MEETING</a></strong><br />
<strong>First Time Users:</strong><br />
To save time before the meeting, <a title="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703" href="http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=90703">check your system </a>to make sure it is ready to use Microsoft Office Live Meeting.<br />
<strong>Troubleshooting</strong><br />
Unable to join the meeting? Follow these steps:</p>
<ol>
<li>Copy this address and paste it into your web browser:<br />
<a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga/join</a></li>
<li>Copy and paste the required information:<br />
Meeting ID: K5FFJ3<br />
Location: <a title="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga" href="https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga">https://www.livemeeting.com/cc/usga</a></li>
</ol>
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		<title>Commonly Confused Words</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/commonly-confused-words/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/commonly-confused-words/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jan 2010 14:12:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=954</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The Internet is a great way to communicate, but it can also lead to general language laziness. I think most of us could use an occasional English lesson, and we&#8217;re in luck today because the professor is in!
Here are some commonly confused words that many of us are guilty of switching at least once in <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/commonly-confused-words/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2><strong>The Internet is a great way to communicate, but it can also lead to general language laziness. I think most of us could use an occasional English lesson, and we&#8217;re in luck today because the professor is in!</strong></h2>
<p><em>Here are some commonly confused words that many of us are guilty of switching at least once in a while.</em></p>
<p><strong>Accept / Except</strong><br />
Accept is a verb meaning to receive.  (I accept your apology.)<br />
Except can be a preposition meaning “excluding” or a verb meaning to exclude.  (Everyone is included except John.)</p>
<p><strong>Adapt / Adopt / Adept</strong><br />
Adapt is a verb that means “to adjust to or become accustomed to.”  (Employees adapt to changes positively.)<br />
Adopt is a verb that means “to take or to choose something voluntarily.”  (They decided to adopt both children even though they already had ten.)<br />
Adept is an adjective that means “thoroughly proficient.”  (He is adept at fixing cars.)</p>
<p><strong>Advice / Advise</strong><br />
Advice is a noun.  (The value of good advice is not immediately recognized.)<br />
Advise is a verb.  (I advise you to read the instruction manual.)</p>
<p><strong>Affect / Effect</strong><br />
Affect is usually a verb meaning “to influence.”  (Automobile emissions can affect the earth’s atmosphere.)<br />
Effect is usually a noun meaning “result.”  (The effects of global warming are difficult to determine.)<br />
Effect can also be a verb meaning “to bring about.”  (The medicine he was taking eventually effected a change in his behavior.)</p>
<p><strong>Allude / Refer</strong><br />
To allude is to mention something indirectly.<br />
To refer is to mention something directly.</p>
<p><strong>Allusion/Illusion</strong><br />
An allusion is an indirect reference.  (The poet made an allusion to the Bible.)<br />
An illusion is a misleading image.  (David Copperfield employs illusions in his magic tricks.)</p>
<p><strong>Alot/ a lot / allot</strong><br />
A lot is the correct form.  Alot is a misspelling.<br />
Allot means to apportion.</p>
<p><strong>Already / All Ready</strong><br />
Already means previously.<br />
All Ready means prepared.</p>
<p><strong>Altogether / All Together</strong><br />
Altogether means entirely.<br />
All Together means gathered together.</p>
<p><strong>Ambiguous / Ambivalent</strong><br />
Ambiguous is an adjective meaning “doubtful” or  “unclear.:<br />
Ambivalent is an adjective meaning “uncertain” or “having simultaneous and contradictory feelings.”</p>
<p><strong>Among / Between</strong><br />
Use among when dealing with more than 2 and between when dealing with only 2.</p>
<p><strong>Assure / Ensure / Insure</strong><br />
Assure means “to make safe” or to give confidence to.”  (He looked back to assure himself no one was following.)<br />
Ensure means “to make a thing or person sure” and may imply a virtual guarantee.  (The government has ensured the safety of the refugees.)<br />
Insure means “to make certain” and sometimes stresses the taking of necessary measures beforehand.  (Careful planning should insure the success of the party.)</p>
<p><strong>Bring / Take</strong><br />
Use bring when something is being brought to you.<br />
Use take when something is being moved away.</p>
<p><strong>Can / May</strong><br />
Use can to express an ability to do something.<br />
Use may to express either permission or possibility.</p>
<p><strong>Cite / Site / Sight</strong><br />
Cite means “to quote from or to refer to an authority.”<br />
Site means “a place.”<br />
Sight means “something that can be seen.”</p>
<p><strong>Coarse / Course</strong><br />
Coarse is an adjective meaning “rough,” “harsh,” or “crude.”<br />
Course is a noun meaning “accustomed procedure” or “unit of study.”</p>
<p><strong>Complement / Compliment</strong><br />
Complement is a verb meaning “to go with” or “to complete.”<br />
Compliment is a verb meaning “to flatter.”</p>
<p><strong>Conscience / Conscious</strong><br />
Conscience is a noun meaning “moral principles.”<br />
Conscious is an adjective meaning “to be awake” or “to be aware.”</p>
<p><strong>Council / Counsel</strong><br />
A council is a group of people who meet to consult, deliberate, or discuss.<br />
Counsel means “to advise or to recommend.”</p>
<p><strong>Desert / Dessert</strong><br />
A desert is made up of sand.<br />
A dessert is a tasty treat.</p>
<p><strong>Elicit / Illicit</strong><br />
Elicit is a verb meaning “to bring out.”<br />
Illicit is an adjective meaning “unlawful.”</p>
<p><strong>Emigrate / Immigrate</strong><br />
Emigrate means “to leave one’s country to go somewhere else.”<br />
Immigrate means “to come into a country.”</p>
<p><strong>Eminent / Imminent</strong><br />
Eminent means “outstanding” or “distinguished.”<br />
Imminent means “about to happen.”</p>
<p><strong>Explicit / Implicit</strong><br />
Explicit means “directly expressed or clearly defined.”<br />
Implicit means “implied or unstated.”</p>
<p><strong>Good / Well</strong><br />
Good is an adjective.  (Even though it is two weeks old, the fruit still looks good.)<br />
Well is an adverb.  (Did you sleep well?)<br />
Both well and good can be used when referring to a state of health , but there are subtle differences; therefore, well is preferred.  (I feel well today.)</p>
<p><strong>Its / It’s / its’</strong><br />
Its is the positive pronoun.  (The college will hold its graduation on Thursday.)<br />
It’s is the contraction of it is.  (Because the storm clouds are rolling, it’s likely to rain before evening.)<br />
Its’ is an error.</p>
<p><strong>Led / Lead</strong><br />
Led is the past tense of the verb lead.  (The performer led the audience in a sing-a-long.)<br />
Lead is a noun that refers to metal.  (Many older buildings are contaminated by lead paint.)</p>
<p><strong>Loose / Lose</strong><br />
Loose is an adjective meaning “not tight.”<br />
Lose is a verb meaning “to misplace.”</p>
<p><strong>Passed / Past</strong><br />
Passed is the past tense of the verb pass.<br />
Past usually refers to a former time.</p>
<p><strong>Principal / Principle</strong><br />
Principal is a noun meaning “the head of a school or organization.”<br />
Principle is a noun meaning “a basic truth, rule, doctrine, or assumption.”</p>
<p><strong>Respectively / Respectfully</strong><br />
Respectively is an adverb meaning “singly, in the order designated.”<br />
Respectfully is an adverb meaning “with respect.”</p>
<p><strong>Stationary / Stationery</strong><br />
Stationary means “remaining in one place.”<br />
Stationery refers to paper.</p>
<p><strong>There / Their / They’re</strong><br />
There is an adverb specifying place.  (Stand there to have your picture taken.)<br />
Their is a possessive pronoun.  (Their house is on the corner.)<br />
They’re is a contraction of they are.  (They’re too tired to stay awake.)</p>
<p><strong>To / Too / Two</strong><br />
To is a preposition that also serves as an infinitive marker.<br />
Too is an adverb meaning “also.”<br />
Two is a number.</p>
<p><strong>Weather / Whether</strong><br />
Weather relates to the condition of the atmosphere.  (The weather outside is frightening.)<br />
Whether is a conjunction used to introduce the first of two or more alternatives.  (Whether you decide to stay or to go is of no concern to me.)</p>
<p><strong>Who / Which / That</strong><br />
Who is used to refer to people and to animals with names.<br />
Which is used to refer only to things and animals.<br />
That is used to refer to things and to most animals, and it may also be used to refer to a group or class of people.</p>
<p><strong>Who’s / Whose</strong><br />
Who’s is a contraction for who is.<br />
Whose is a possessive pronoun.</p>
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		<title>Econem™ Biological Nematicide From Pasteuria Bioscience To Be Exclusively Distributed by Harrell&#8217;s LLC</title>
		<link>http://harrells.com/blog/econem-biological-nematicide-from-pasteuria-bioscience-to-be-exclusively-distributed-by-harrells-llc/</link>
		<comments>http://harrells.com/blog/econem-biological-nematicide-from-pasteuria-bioscience-to-be-exclusively-distributed-by-harrells-llc/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2010 21:00:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Harrell&#39;s</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Turf]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://harrells.com/?p=929</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Econem™ Biological Nematicide From Pasteuria Bioscience To Be Exclusively Distributed by Harrell&#8217;s LLC
Targeted state registrations allow sale of Econem™for sting nematode control in turf grass throughout Southeast
January 4, 2010 – ALACHUA, Fla. – Pasteuria Bioscience (http://www.pasteuriabio.com) and Harrell&#8217;s LLC have completed an agreement where Harrell&#8217;s will act as exclusive distributor for Econem™ Biological Nematicide.  Econem <a href="http://harrells.com/blog/econem-biological-nematicide-from-pasteuria-bioscience-to-be-exclusively-distributed-by-harrells-llc/" class="continue">...continue</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h2><strong>Econem™ Biological Nematicide From Pasteuria Bioscience To Be Exclusively Distributed by Harrell&#8217;s LLC</strong></h2>
<p><strong><em>Targeted state registrations allow sale of Econem™for sting nematode control in turf grass throughout Southeast</em></strong></p>
<p><strong>January 4, 2010</strong> – ALACHUA, Fla. – Pasteuria Bioscience (<a href="http://www.pasteuriabio.com" target="_blank">http://www.pasteuriabio.com</a>) and Harrell&#8217;s LLC have completed an agreement where Harrell&#8217;s will act as exclusive distributor for Econem™ Biological Nematicide.  Econem is the first EPA registered product based on Pasteuria spp. and provides sting nematode control in turf grass.  Econem is available from Harrell&#8217;s and will be marketed to the golf course, sports turf and landscape management industries in Florida and select Southeastern states.</p>
<p>&#8220;Harrell&#8217;s is excited to enter into this agreement with Pasteuria Bioscience,&#8221; said Jack  Harrell, Jr., chairman and chief executive officer of Harrell&#8217;s.  &#8220;Econem provides an effective, safe and sustainable product for sting nematode control.  It&#8217;s a product that meets our customers&#8217; needs and fits well with our current business.&#8221;</p>
<p>Sting nematodes represent a major threat for golf courses throughout Florida and the Southeast.  In August, Econem received EPA registration for control of sting nematodes in turf.  Since that time, targeted state registrations have been applied for and received in targeted Southeastern states.</p>
<p>Initial field trials conducted with Econem have shown it to significantly reduce root damage caused by sting nematodes thus improving turf density and stimulating new root development.</p>
<p>“Having Harrell&#8217;s as a partner in selling Econem is ideal based on their solid reputation and coverage area,&#8221; said Dave Duncan, chief executive officer for Pasteuria Bioscience. &#8220;Econem offers breakthrough new technology for control of sting nematodes and Harrell&#8217;s can provide the sales and marketing support needed to successfully market Econem.&#8221;</p>
<p>For more information, please contact Steve Hanson at GRIP IDEAS: (480) 488-0969, steve@gripideas.com</p>
<h2><a href="http://www.harrells.com/wp-content/dl/econem.pdf" target="_blank">More Information on Econem (PDF)</a></h2>
<h2><a href="http://www.pasteuriabio.com" target="_blank">Visit the Pasteuria Bioscience web site</a></h2>
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